Friday, May 8, 2015

Touchy-Feely

Susan's Pink Sketchy
I have a funny habit of touching bicycles. It starts innocently enough: First a glance, then a closer look, then a quick stroke or two. But before I know it I am engaged in an orgy of tactile exploration that has been known to shock by-standers. Slowly and affectionately I will run my hand over the frame, tracing the outlines of the lugwork, closely examining the joints, touching the braze-ons one by one, visibly savouring every moment of it. Those who know me in person tease me about this, and apparently even discuss it behind my back good-naturedly. At Interbike last year, I was giving a bike a furtive fondle when the manufacturer snuck up behind me, laughing: "They toldme you were going to do this!"



When it comes to other people's bikes, I do ask permission - much as I would ask for permission to pet someone's dog or cat. "May I?" My voice andmy outstretched handtremble with anticipation. The owner is amused and delighted, if somewhat taken aback by the intensity of my interest.



But though my case may be extreme, I am hardly alone in the bike-fondling affliction. Even without asking, strangers will often stroke my bikes absent-mindedly - their hands drawn to a leather saddle, a headbadge, some shellacked twine, lugwork. "This part here..." an acquaintance suddenly said mid-conversation, pointing to the top of my bike's fork. "It's so... cake-like! What is it for?" Excitedly I began to explain about fork crowns, but stopped myself as the poor person's eyes glazed over. They didn't want to know. But they did want to touch.



I think that bicycles - particularly bicycles with all sorts of interesting or organic-looking bits on them - tend to invite tactile attention. Say what you will about looks mattering or not mattering, but when a bicycle draws us in physically, surely that is a good thing.



Are you touchy-feely when it comes to bikes? Do others tend to touch your bike, and do you mind?

Meal Time

Stormy and Trave eating together.

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Solstice!


Soon the longest day of the year will be upon us. For climbers this is significant not only because there are a lot of festivals, parties and music happenings throughout the area, but also because this is the time of the year when the long daylight hours allow us to climb headlamp free for many, many hours.



This year the actual Solstice is on June 20 at 23:09, however its effects will be noticed for a much longer period of time and are in fact currently being observed. Since the 20th is a weekday you can actually make it to the Fremont Fair and the associated parties going on this weekend, get down, recover and STILL get out in the wilderness or wherever else you enjoy being for the actual day of Solstice. (Just assuming wilderness is your thing since this is a blog about climbing Mount Rainier.)



The forecast for the upcoming week looks like a mixed bag with some sun and clouds, but no major storm events are on the horizon. Hopefully we are done with those for a while. Climbers have recently been summitting via all the standard routes, so check out the updates for the DC, Emmons, and Liberty Ridge among others. Don't forget your sunblock and stay hydrated out there!

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Be attentive when placing ice screws!

A Grivel Helix buried with some terrain protection..but it wasn't an intentional act.And until now I hadn't thought much about the issue. I wonder how many of us have?









The German DAV report and its pictures discussed in this entryare clear as to the issue but sadly I can't copythe context. If anyone finds a version I can copy and paste [thank you Joe for the jpegs]please let me know.







This from Magnus Råström @ Black Diamond Equipment AG





"There was a ice climbing accident last season, no one got hurt but it could have ended really bad and the ice climbers were using our (BD) Express screws. Christ Semmel working for DAV investigated the accident and attached is his report in German. I have below a short summary in English.



Course of Action:

2 Ice climbers doing a multipitch route in Austria, using Mammut double ropes, for protection BD Express Ice Screw with a Austria Alpin QD Easy Classic and for belay a reverso. The axe and crampons of the lead climber (belayed from below) did pull out and the climber fell 12 m without ice contact or injury, but the mantel ripped on one of the ropes (see photo page one, blue rope). Chris came to the conclusion that the rope ripped because it was pulled over the crank knob of the ice screw. The photo on page one, red rope is the rope which they have tested and pulled over a crank knob. Chris is not negative against our ice screw’s and the conclusion is that when ice climbing with ice screw’s with crank knobs it is important to fold them in after use. Also he recommends the use of ice screws with crank knobs that you can fold in.



All the best,

Magnus Råström / Black Diamond Equipment AG"





I use and like both the BD Express and Grivel Helix.



I do how ever use Grivel Helix in much of my own steep water ice climbing with an obvious crank knob that does not fold in. Worth noting the BD knobs are sharp in comparison. It should be pretty obvious you don't want a rope running over them that will take weight. The BD knob diameter at the small end is 9.5mm and the Grivel 15.5mm. The Grivel knob is a synthetic, likely Delrin and smooth. BD's knob is knurled aluminum and likely the last thing any of us want to run a rope over. I don't want my rope running overeither in a fall. But if given a choice...I'll take a folded knob overthe Grivel option.



But that isn't the total story. You need to know more.



The direction at which you clip the hangers should also be very different on the BD as opposed to the Grivel screws. The Grivel hanger offers a bit more play to set a screw and have the hanger flex on the screw to clear the ice. That allows the Grivel knob to be closer to the ice where the BD hanger will always be forced intentionally to the outside. Flip the BD knob down and you won't have a problem there. Not so on the Grivel as you have no option but to hide the know in the terrain. .



I disagree some what withMagnus' synopsis of the report and if that was accurate (and no reason to think it was not) the DAV report itself.



Here is why:

It you hang a rope on the Grivel hangerit is more likely to do one of two things in my opinon :

One: It will slide off to the outside of the hanger on theslick Delrin material



Two: Or depending on the hanger clearance from the ice get trapped behind the hanger and run on the 16.5mm screw body itself and or the horizontally positioned hanger body.



Either option I would prefer to knurled aluminum and a vertical positioned 2.5mm thick stainless hanger. So close your knobs on the BD Express screws! And I wouldn't usescrews with a fixed small diameter (knurled or not) knob that mimics BD's hanger design is what I take away fromthis. It is splitting hairs but important hairs I think.



It is all about the details,be careful out there!



A Grivel Helix with the black knob and two BD Express, red knob up and the yellow knob tucked in. Note the Grivel hanger is reversed compared to how it would actually be placed in the ice for this photo.



Obvious difference in the Grivel horizontal hanger and BD's vertical hanger. Thisis not the position the Grivel screw would normally be placed but 180 degrees reversed. Knob up on Grivel. Knob down for BD.



A long 2.7mm "blade" before you get to the knurled aluminum knob on the BD screw.



Beal 7.8 Ice twin on the BD knob which when left open caused a sheath failure in the fall.





I have no doubt you could catch a rope on the Grivel hanger, which you really do not want to do.Bottom line is be careful out there and think about each and every placement. For my money twin or dbl ropes on ice make a lot of sense.







Two pictures of the Grivel Helix in the position a rope would normally be caught from above. With the hanger totally at the end of its movement and the carabiner holeis to the inside,the knob is angled down so a rope would generally just slip off of it orthe rope will run behind the hanger and on to the screw tube body. This seems an unlikely event (but certainly possible) because only ice behind the knob end of the hanger would force it into this position.



If the hanger does have space behind it after the screw is placed no question you can easily hook the rope there in a fall.But again better a 17.5mm radius (Grivel's tube) to run your rope over than a 9.5mm radius (BD's knob) with the addition of several sharp edges to help the damage along.



Worth repeating I think.

For my money twin or dbl ropes on ice make a lot of sense.

Miles of vertical ice have been climbed with either style screw and hanger and as many miles with screws and hangersnot nearly as good. I'll continue to climb on both BD and Grivel screws and choose accordingly to whichfits my project best.I'm not suggesting panic here just that you keep your eyes and mind open to the possibilities.

Thinking About Cities

Las Vegas, Off the StripThough I've lived in many different places over the course of my life, they have been mostly in Europe. Within the US my travels have been limited to the East Coast, and my trip to Las Vegas for Interbike was the first time I'd ventured west of Pennsylvania. Popular culture is saturated with images of Vegas, and I thought I knew pretty well what to expect: casinos, bright lights, neon signs, drunken merrymaking... If in the right kind of mood, I could see the kitsch appeal. But what I did not expect were unfinished construction projects, miles of empty parking lots, and a funny sense of being in the middle of a Broadway production that had its funding cancelled before the set could be completed. Maybe I wasn't supposed to arrive during the daytime (or be awake during daylight at all while there?), but the Vegas I saw looked not unlike the outer boroughs of former Soviet bloc cities, with their faded concrete high-rises and muddy vacant lots.

Las Vegas MonorailEqually fascinating was that Las Vegas seemed to be intentionally "anti-pedestrian" in design. I have no background in city planning, so it's hard to explain exactly what I mean. But with the exception of the smallish main strip - which is indeed walkable and feels like Disneyworld on crack - the city is made of these self-contained complexes accessible either by car or Monorail (they really try to push the Monorail, but it was mostly empty every time I used it).

Las Vegas, Off the StripEven in the city center, the roads are multi-lane and highway-like. Sometimes there are sidewalks, but they are lined with tall guard rails and there are no provisions for crossing the street except maybe every mile or so.The hotel I stayed at was technically around the corner from the convention center where Interbike was held, yet it was recommended I take the Monorail to it. Well, one night I had this crazy idea to walk. I could clearly see the hotel right in front of me - how bad could it be? It took about an hour and a half, because there was no way to walk to it in anything resembling a straight line. I had to walk around stadium-sized empty lots surrounded with chainlink fences, and when I tried to take shortcuts through hotels, I was forced to navigate along winding paths designed to maximise my exposure to slot machines. It was surreal. As for riding a bike, I remember someone posting a ridiculous statistic on twitter, claiming that 100% of Las Vegas residents who cycle report being hit by a car at least once. Having now been there, I no longer find it implausible.

Overcast Las Vegas, Hotel WindowWhile of course I've known that places like Las Vegas exist, I guess I've done my best to avoid them - choosing to live in areas that are walkable, which for me equates with livable. Being faced with the reality of what a city like this is actually like was jarring. I know that places like Boston comprise only a small fraction of the American urban landscape, while a model similar to Las Vegas is more common. I know it, but I try not to think about it, because the realisation fills me with a dread that I don't know how to overcome.

As I write this, I am waiting to board a plane to yet another city: Vienna. Design-wise, it is pretty much the polar opposite of the Las Vegas. And the public transportation and cycling infrastructure putevenBoston to shame. It is fascinating that such contrasts are possible in the way human beings create living spaces. What motivates the various designs? And what to do when the original motive is no longer relevant, or was a mistake, or turns out to be harmful to the population? Huge questions, I know. But sometimes you have to ask.

Saturday, May 2, 2015

Visitor in our Front Yard


Well, not technically in our front yard. More like our extended side yard. This guy was trying to hide out and not be seen by us. He was a smallish gator, maybe four feet or so. Nathan was able to grab some shots of him before he swam away.



It always cracks me up when people ask me if there are alligators in the river here. This is the equivalent to asking me if it will get hot in the summer. We are in Florida and it is water. There will be alligators. We rarely see them from land though so it is nice when we can get some pictures of them.



I am probably making my mother-in-law very nervous by now, so I'll quit for today.



Living the life in gatorville Florida!


Iva Jean Rain Cape: Ethereal, Wearable

Iva Jean Rain CapeWhen asked to review the Iva Jean Rain Cape, I immediately recalled theremarkably successful photosof this item I had seen in the lookbook several months earlier. I'd been mesmerised by the stunning model and bicycle, by the perfect combination of my favourite colours, by the foggy, milky, electric feel of the whole thing. But a staged photoshoot is one thing; the article of clothing itself could be quite another. What we have here is essentially a silver hooded cape, to be worn on a bicycle. The skeptic in me was thinking that few of us can pull off a garment like that without looking like we are headed to a sci-fi convention.

Iva Jean Rain CapeWhen the Iva Jean cape arrived, I was relieved to find it quite wearable. The colour is a metalic slate gray, in no danger of being confused with an aluminum foil alien costume. The fabric is fluid and drapey, not stiff. And it is mostly noiseless (no swooshing).

Iva Jean Rain CapeThe cape is made in Seattle out of a water-repellent, breathable nylon-polyester blend fabric with reflective piping. It is one size only and hits mid-thigh. I don't want to repeat manufacturer specs, so please read the complete list of featureshere.

Iva Jean Rain CapeClose-up of the hood, visor, rear vent and reflective piping.

Iva Jean Rain CapeThe hood is roomy and can be loosened and tightened using a system of drawcords.

Iva Jean Rain CapeRear view.

Iva Jean Rain CapeStand-up collar inside the hood. The zipper extends half way down and makes the cape easy to put on and take off.

Iva Jean Rain CapeThe arm openings have velcro closure, as does the large front pocket. There is also a system of drawcords and thumb loops on the bottom for keeping the arms inside the cape.

Iva Jean Rain CapeFull rear view.

Iva Jean Rain CapeIn use on the bike.Speaking generally, I must admit that I am not a "bicycle cape person." When I look down and see a tent draped over my legs, it abstracts the pedaling experience for me. That said, this cape is so lightweight, that this effect is diminished. What I like about it particularly is the breathability, the flattering shape, and the ease of movement it affords off the bike.With capes I can sometimes feel as if I am getting tangled in them, but this onehas such an airy feel to it, that I could hardly tell I had it on.

One thing to keep in mind is that this is a cape, not a poncho. It is intended for casual use, such as commuting. As you can see in the pictures, the forearms are somewhat exposed when I am holding the handlebars, because I am fairly leaned forward on this particular bike. The more upright your position on the bicycle, the less this will be an issue. [Edited to add: The manufacturer explains that it is possible to cover the handlebars with the cape like so. However, when I attempted this my arms felt constricted and I was not able to use it comfortably in this manner.]

Iva Jean Rain CapeHaving worn the cape in the rain a couple of times, the coverage was sufficient and there were no problems with the waterproofing. As far as temperature regulation, the cape functions as a light shell and you can layer underneath it.The vents provide good ventilation on warmer days.The front can be zipped all the way up to cover the neck up to the chin on days when you wish for a scarf.

I found the system of drawcords a little complicated, but I think this is a matter of preference and others will appreciate them, as they basically allow you to reshape the garment in a variety of ways. The one point of criticism I have, is what to me looks like some subtle bunching up of fabric around the seams (you can see it in pictures like this one). It could be just an unavoidable characteristic of the fabric used, but I am detail-oriented and my eyes keep being drawn to this.

Iva Jean Rain CapeThe Iva Jean Rain Cape is available for sale online, and the retail price is $240. If you would like my review sample, please leave a comment with your email address by Monday, November 28th, 11:59pm Pacific time and I will choose a recipient at random. Continental US entries only please. In my opinion this cape will fit women up to size 10 US.

Enjoy the rest of your Thansgiving weekend!