Putting Your Foot Down

Enough people have asked me about this now that I thought it worth writing about: How do I put a toe down in traffic while remaining on the saddle, and also manage to get full leg extension on the downstroke? I will try to explain.



First off, let me clarify that I get "more or less" full leg extension, and obviously my leg would be even straighter if I had the saddle higher. So there is a bit of give and take to it. But the idea that your leg needs to be arrow-straight on the downstroke with the toe on the pedal and the heel raised, is not one that everyone subscribes to - especially not cyclists in cities where riding a bike for transportation is common. In Vienna, I would say that about half the cyclists I saw had their saddles adjusted so that they could touch the ground with a toe. Based on the pictures here, this seems to be the case in Copenhagen as well. When riding in cities with frequent intersections and stop signs, it can be tedious to get on and off the bike every 3 minutes. Being able to put a toe down makes things easier.



Another point, is that some bicycles' geometries work better for this than others: Typically, Dutch-style city bicycles have very relaxed seat tube angles, which increases the distance between the saddle and the pedals while keeping the saddle height constant. A lower bottom bracket helps as well, though not as much as a slack seat tube. You can watch this video of Dottie starting and stopping on her bike to get a better idea of how this works on a Dutch bike.



Finally, this may not be sufficiently noticeable in pictures, but I lean my bike to the side in order to reach the ground with a toe. I also keep my other foot on the pedal for balance. I cannot reach the ground with both toes, and I cannot even really reach with one toe unless I lean. This is something that becomes instinctive if you do it often enough. Alternatively, you could set the saddle lower. I've basically raised mine as far as I possibly can, while still managing to reach with one tip-toe while leaning.



Adjusting your saddle so that you can stop with a toe down is mainly about convenience. Some cyclists prefer this method, while others feel that not having their leg 100% straight on the downstroke robs them of power. How do you stop in traffic when cycling for transportation? And is it the method you've always used, or did you develop it after some trial and error?

New Mexico Sunset

The view from my campsite at Rockhound State Park.Southeast of Deming, New Mexico.January 6, ...

By The Numbers?

No one more surprised than me of the results over the last 3 years.



The first post I made onCold Thistle was 1/29/10

Dec'10 saw 63K page reads for the month.

Dec'11 saw 84K page reads for the month.

Dec '12 saw 99K page reads for the month



As of today Cold Thistle has just rolled over 1.5 million page reads! But we have yet to break 4K page reads in a day...close mind you but CT never hit 4K in a 24 hr period. Thanks to everyone for dropping by. Theaudience here is literally from every alpine country in the world, reading and commenting on a daily basis. Andbetter yet contributing with guest blogs when you can or have the interest. My wish was forthe blog tohelp spread good info in the community. I'm blessed to still be a part of and how small thethe tribereally is.



Your support (the readers and manufactures) has enabled me to see more gear that I ever thought remotely possible. Reporting back here in writing and pictures is still fun for me. Hopefully it has been useful to you. The page reads here are way out of proportion to the 500+ membership. If you would liketo see more gear reviewed, take a moment and sign up as a member of the Cold Thistle blog. It costs nothing but a few minutes of your time. I willknow nothing more about you past your little photo in the "list". Way less time that it takes to read this blog post. The advantage to you (and me) is manufactures are more willing to be involved and support Cold Thistle...if you, the climbing consumer, will. The numbers do count!





Cheers to all, will be agreat year!



Dane

Boating and Tubing

We have been so lucky to be able to do boating on Daryl and Diana's new boat. The boat is just awesome and they are so gracious in sharing it with us by inviting us each time they go out in it.



We really appreciate you all and your cool boat! Today we spent a good bit of the day out, enjoying the water and doing some tubing with them.

An osprey and its nest:

How I measure insulated down jackets?

I've looked at a lot of down jackets here at Cold Thistle. Synthetics I generally use the weight of the insulation, 60g per square meter as an example or 100g per square meter.



Down jackets I want to know a couple of things.



Construction? Fully box baffled or sewn through. There can be a lot of different combos along with that. But that is the first. What is the construction?



SecondI want to knowwhat the quality of the downused. The fill rating? 750 cu inch per ounce or 800 fill or 1000 fill?



How much actual down fill, as in ounces used? And the jacket's size. Most importantly how that size fits me personally.



Three additional measurements matter to me. Cana full size climbing helmet EASILYfit inside the hood?



Length of the jacket's back from shoulder seam, @ the base of the hood to the hem.











And finally the height of the insulation measured 1/2 way between the neck and the point of the shoulder with the jacket laid flat and completely zipped up. It means little other than as a comparison of loft in the jacket one to another. This number could easily be fudged to gain or loose insulation depending on your bias and sway the charts.( even the pictures are difficutlt to read accuratly so I don't post them intentionally) I know that and try to make a consistent and realistic measurement so that I show no favorites here. It is also why I don't go smaller than 1/2 inch in differences.






Close up of the height of insulation at the shoulder. This jacketactually has 3" of loft Although the angle of the camera shows almost 3.5". You have to be consistent on every measurement and honest when you postthe numbers.









Shoulder between point of shoulder and the hood on ajacket

Cycling and the Summer Sun

After weeks of freezing temperatures and rains, the past few days have been super-sunny, hot and humid. The rapid transition has plunged me into a frantic search through my abode for appropriate attire and sufficient sunscreen.

Complexion-wise, I am pale - with purple rather than orange undertones. Venturing out after a winter season, I tend to look like something from Flowers in the Attic. And I am ridiculously sensitive to heat and humidity, to the point where a mere stroll down a street without shade on a summer day can result in heat stroke or sun poisoning. What then, of the miles of sun-drenched bicycle routes in greater Boston?

A long bridge over the Charles River (Longfellow Bridge), its menacing sunshine ready to devour me.

A hazy view of the city from the bridge.

Massachusetts Avenue - the most popular bicycle commuters' route through Cambridge - with hardly a tree to defend from the sun's rays (picture taken pointing backwards, while stopped on red).

The way I've been dealing with the sun so far, has been mostly via the avoidance method. In my head I have a sort of alternative bicycle map of the areas where I frequently ride, with tree-lined routes at the ready if a day is sunny and hot.

I also tend to avoid being outdoors in the summer from mid-morning till late afternoon, trying my best to schedule my trips and meetings during times when the sun is gentler. Sometimes these methods work, but other times they are insufficient.


I do drink water, wear loose and light-coloured clothing, and use sunscreen - but that too has proven to have its limits. Until recently, it had always been my understanding that the potency of sunscreen beyond SPF 35 is marginal and that higher SPF numbers are mostly a gimmick (and potentially hazardous). However, last year - when cycling daily on the open roads of Cape Cod for two weeks at the end of September - I repeatedly got burned while wearing my SPF 35 sunblock. So this year I have purchased SPF 80 sunblock and pray this does the trick, while on some level being uneasy about the possible adverse effects of overusing this stuff.

If anybody has advice on this issue, please share. Last year, I noticed visible damage to the skin on my face and hands after a summer of cycling, and I want to avoid this in future. Are there other pallid and sun-averse cyclists out there, who have gotten adept at combating the sweltering heat?

Altra Lone Peak trail running shoes (600+ mile review)

Altra - Lone Peak trail running shoes after 600+ miles

In past blog posts I've touched on gear that I find extraordinary. I was surprised how many people read my write-up on the Lowa Mountain Expert ice boots. I'd like to highlight my favorite " 3-season" shoes, The Altra Lone Peak. Since purchasing these about a year ago, many of my trail runs have been done wearing the Altra Lone Peak Zero Drops. What's zero drop? Zero drop means that there is no height differential between the front and rear of the shoe. Note that most traditional shoes have a higher heel than toe. Primarily the higher heel is designed to cushion the hard impact of heel striking runners (those who's heel is the first part to impact the ground during running). Zero drops are intended to promote forefoot or mid-foot striking by not having a thick heel to get in the way, helping the runner to land mid or fore foot. Instead of me trying to get all tech-savy on you, simply check out Altra's website for a lot of information about running form, and how their shoes can help make you a stronger, healthier runner. For the record, I'm not affiliated with Altra in any way. Nor is this a paid review or did I get free shoes like some reviewers. This is simply a write-up on a pair of shoes that I think are top-notch and that fellow runners might benefit from. I've read other reviews, but most seemed like blah,blah "out of the box" reviews. I figured I'd share my thoughts after some lengthy trail use. For those who don't know me, I'm your average trail runner/climber who happens to spend a great deal of time on the trails and rocks in the beautiful Laurel Highlands of Southwestern Pennsylvania. I usually run 5 or 6 days a week (not always in the Lone Peak). I'm 6' tall, weigh about 155lbs, size 12 and normally cover between 50-100 miles per week. I've primarily used these shoes for trail running on technical single track, but they've also been worn as climbing approach shoes and general hikers on many occasions. The 600+ mile estimate is most likely very low, but we'll just call it 600. I decided to take a brush to my shoes, clear away all the trail debris, and show how great they've fared thus far...

Zero drop = no raised heel

My Lone Peaks are the first generation model. Designed for running many miles, over rough terrain. I originally read about them shortly before their release. I was excited by the wide toe box design, lighter weight, some rock protection and zero drop platform. I guess I liked most everything about them. Very close to what I would want if I designed my own shoe. Around that time I was happily running a lot of road miles in the first edition NB Road Minimus. Pleased with the lower heel and wide toe box on that model, I was in the market for a new pair of trail shoes of similar design. I purchased the Lone Peaks shortly after their availability. Fast forward over last season and some months off due to ski injuries. They've covered a few miles and are holding up very well. I will admit to being pessimistic about their durability since this was their first release of the Lone Peak model. So far they're holding up better than any other trail shoes I've used in the past and I expect that they'll continue. Here's a photo review with some comments on the current state of my Lone Peaks.

The toe cap material ripped or split, Barge cement holds it in place...Usually

The toe cap failure doesn't seem to impede performance, but requires maintenance every couple of runs ;)

Stitching and the upper are holding great. The Wasatch Range is cool

The heel lining doesn't look so good, but still very comfortable

Not the sticky, climbing rubber of LaSportiva's trail models, but better thanothers I've tried. The center forefoot lugs and midsole are wearing down as expected

I really like the traction of the simplistic lugs, great for the trails of Western PA

Factory insoles, still intact with no comlaints

The trail rudder is awesome for "skiing" down steep, slippery slopes. I also like the minimal heel structure. somewhat changed in the newer Lone Peak ver 1.5

Overall, these will see many more miles and I look forward to wearing them

Personal Experience:



I'm always excited to put these shoes on and hit the trails. I will admit that they took some time to get used to. There is much less cushioning than what is found in most traditional trail running shoes, but a lot more than in a model like a NB Trail Minimus, etc. This means that if you do strike your heel on rocks and other trail obstacles, you will feel it. Most runners do experience some growing pains converting to this type of shoe. Worry not... In a short time, your feet and legs will transition into the shock absorbing machines they were designed to be. In past years, I've always had some type of leg pain that slowed my training. Since switching my running form and going to flatter shoes (especially Altras) I've been able to keep training without interruption. Its great to feel sore after a run, not injured. I'll be looking to get a pair of the new Lone Peaks(when these get a little closer to death). I'm curious to see how Altra made improvements on a damn fine, trail running shoe! In a nutshell, I'd HIGHLY recommend giving the Altra Lone Peak's a try. I'd be surprised if you don't fall in love with them like so many others. If you have any questions regarding me, my shoes or whatever... feel free to drop me a message or email. Climb High, Run Far!