Thursday, April 14, 2011

Conditions after the rains look good

Most "local" ice climbers are figuring that the season has just ended with all the rain. What ice could be left? I'm happy to report the the community that most held in with minor damage. Here's a photo conditions report from today. Hope this motivates you to come check out SWPA!


Irishtown, The Prow WI4, M3 a little washed, watch the top.



Irishtown, Mouth of Madness WI5-

in slightly easier conditions. The best its looked this season



Irishtown, Dynamite M6+, almost a drytool line.

Not much ice at the top.



Irishtown, Pale Wildwood Ice Tower WI4

makes another appearance



Irishtown, Dirty-T M4 is in great shape for a moderate mixed





Irishtown, Upper Wall, currently OUT

Possibly by next weekend it will rebond.



Upper Meadow Run, Ohiopyle State Park, School Yard WI4- to 3-

held up and is in great shape.



Upper Meadow Run Amphitheater is looking good.



Upper Meadow Run, Ohiopyle State Park, Buckey's Line WI3+

This rare former is in good shape. Watch the thick top out.



Lower Meadow Run, Season Finale M6 R is ready



Lower Meadow Run, Ohiopyle State Park, Main Flow WI3,

Anger Management M6 climbs up through the daggers, currently in great shape.



Lower Meadow Run, Caveman M7 the ice is a little short, but should go



Lower Meadow Run, The Flows WI2 still nice and thick


Other local ice conditions...






The Beast WI5+/6 formed more right due to wind.

Its tentacles are about grounded. Son of Beast WI5+ filled in nicely.



The Infinite WI5+ and The SICK-le WI6, M7



Still plenty of ice and new lines to be climbed...
So there it is. There's still lots of ice in most areas. The forecast looks promising for improving conditions. Now is the time to climb. The ice has finally become smooth and good sticks are easier now than in weeks past. Get out and enjoy the great conditions we've been given. If you have any questions about other local conditions or areas, drop me a line. Hope to see you out there. -Tim

Ice Cave at Hollow Rock



This "window" of ice is looking out on the little island known as "Hollow Rock", which has been the subject of more than a few of my previous blog entries. I feel very fortunate that I now have this image in my portfolio, since the decision to head out and shoot that morning could have easily gone the other way. We had spent 5 hours snowshoeing the previous day over some very rugged terrain, and our bodies really didn't feel like going out early in the morning and shooting again so soon after the snowshoe workout. The decision was made to head out, however, and boy am I glad that we did as several good images were made on this morning.
The sunrise over Hollow Rock was very nice, with some interesting clouds to spice things up. The real treat, though, was finding two small ice caves to photograph. This particular image is of the second ice cave that I found, and when I stuck my head into this little cave I couldn't believe the view I found with Hollow Rock visible through the hole. It was as though mother nature had tailor-made this ice formation for a curious photographer to stumble upon. There wasn't much room to work inside the cave to get this image. It required crawling into the cave head-first on my stomach then propping my elbows on the rocky ground to brace the camera for this shot. There was no room at this angle to use my tripod. I shot this hand-held with my Canon EF 17-40mm lens, shutter speed 1/60, aperture f16, ISO 200.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Hopefully my final comment on BD stainless



Is it just me or is it really hard to get a simple and straight forward answer in any public forum?



I posed this question on the BD website (and on the Super Topo thread) and added the bold insert here on the "recall":



Dane Burns @ Cold Thistle

17 Apr , 11:52PM

"In the Fall of '10 or early winter of '11 BD obviously made an inline change and added 30% or more material to the front point area on the frame of the Sabers where they have been breaking.



We have been calling them Gen I and Gen II for clarity's sake.



As late as last Fall () you could still buy Gen I Sabers at retailers online and in person.



Was there ever a recall internally of the Gen I crampons and replacement with Gen IIs. (the answer is yes in at least one retailer's case) If you own Gen Is will BD replace them with Gen IIs prior to a failure?Thanks for the reply."



The BD answer is here:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/qc-lab-gear-doesnt-last-forever--crampons



and reprinted here:



18 Apr , 4:04PM

"@Dane Burns As previously stated in our QC Lab post on the Black Diamond Journal and in Peter Metcalf's post on Supertopo.com, our designers and engineers always look for opportunities to improve designs through in-line adjustments. These iterative design tweaks are part of any BD product, be it a carabiner, crampon, ski boot, headlamp or trekking pole. And, as stated previously as well, we stand behind all of our products, including all stainless steel crampons."





Looks to me like they are standing behind the crampons. Swapping Gen Is for Gen IIs should be easy asBD really does stand behind the product. Here is their warranty info:



http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/customer-service/warranty-repair



North America:






Black Diamond Warranty and Repair

2084 East 3900 South

Salt Lake City, Utah 84124

801-365-5555

warranty@bdel.com



The EU:








Black Diamond Equipment AG

Christoph Merian Ring 7


4153 Reinach, Switzerland

p: +41/61 564 33 23

f: +41/61 564 33 24



service@blackdiamond.eu



Here is how you tell the difference:









"Interesting observation from a picture. 2nd gen Saber on the left and 1st generation Saber on the right. Serac's look to have added the same amount of material to the forward rails. Difference across the flat, in the same area as the breaks above, has gone from .53" to .70". Or if my numbers are correct, a 38% increase in material to the rails. The center bar on the front points went from .50" to .62" or 24%."



Monday, April 11, 2011

Booze and Fast Cars

As if this area didn't have enough neat things already, it also has lots of booze and fast cars. There are vineyards, winery, and distilleries galore. And there are classic car and race car related things everywhere too. Watkins Glen has car shaped road signs and plaques in the sidewalks.

The first weekend we were here, there was a Classic Car event. I didn't grab many pictures of the cars because the area was so congested, it made it hard to drive, let alone snap pictures. Aric got to stand by some other beauties at the library one day.

From Watkins Glen Chamber of Commerce website: The community recently celebrated its 60th anniversary of road racing.The checkered flag first dropped here in 1948 … a time when man and machine used the village streets and hillsides for its race course.Today, Watkins Glen International hosts a full calendar of international motor racing events on a world-class raceway.The original racetrack has been recognized on the National Register of Historic Places … the Village celebrates its road racing heritage each year with the Watkins Glen Vintage Grand Prix Festival…where the cars return to streets for a day of racing on the original course.

And their information about the agriculture here:

Seneca Lake provides the ideal climatic environment for the areas wine-making enterprises and we lay claim to being the second largest wine producing region in the United States … second only to Napa Valley.

Over 700 feet deep, Seneca Lake’s glacial “lake effect” shelters the lush vineyards that flank her shores.

Retaining residual summer warmth in the winter and winter’s cold in the spring, the vineyards receive protection from disastrous spring frosts during grape formation and early fall frosts before the harvest.

In 2005 the area boasted 42 wineries on Seneca Lake … currently, more than 50 wineries, of the over 90 in the Finger Lakes region, open their doors to visitors from all over the world.



Beautiful, just beautiful!

Harvest




This years harvest is well underway

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Stage 03



The garden in August just after the replacement of the plastic tub with a ceramic container.

Custom Leather Pannier by Cristobal &Co


Since having written my "short chainstay lament"some time ago, I've connected with a number of small manufacturers and artisans who have developed panniers specifically to solve this problem. And yes, I will be reviewing them all to the best of my ability! This month I bring you Cristobal &Co. I am familiar with the owner of Cristobalvia bikeforums and obtained this pannier in an equal value trade.





Cristobalpanniers are custom-made by hand by traditional artisans in Mexico. They are made ofleather and covered with a thin layer of weatherproof and UV-resistant synthetic fabric. Although standard models are available, the nicest thing about Cristobalis the possibility for customisation. I asked for a pannier that would fit my MacBook without inducing heel strike when used on my mixte. I sent measurements of my bike's chainstays and rear rack, we discussed dimensions, and I also indicated how high I wanted the pannier to sit. Shortly thereafter I received the cute, boxy Cristobalwith honey leather and removable side-pocket. It fits my MacBookwith much room to spare without a hint of heel strike.







Having used a variety of leather satchels in the past, I would describe theCristobalpannier as exceptionally well made. The leather is of high quality and the stitching is precise. There are no loose threads, no botched edges.






The underside of the leather is soft to the touch. There is an option to get a flap that will cover the rivets holding up the hooks on the back of the pannier, and I asked for this feature - making the interior completely safe for my laptop and camera equipment.






The removable pocket can be fitted to either side of the pannier via a built-in attachment system.






It is large enough to fit a mobile phone and a small digital camera at the same time, which is useful.






The extra long leather strapswith metal buckles aredesigned to hold a jacketwhen closed.






However, I usually just leave mine open, because it takes too long to mess with them (a quick release design could work nicely here).






The attachment system consists of straps with buckles and two hooks. The open hooks go over the rack's tubing to keep it stable, and the straps are used to secure it. The hooks are standardly sized - similar to those used by Arkel- and will not fit racks with thick tubing, such as heavy duty Dutch bike racks.






A lower pair of straps attaches to the rack's stays for greater stability. You can see in the pictures that the straps are easily moveable via the slots in the leather, which makes it possible to adjust the pannier to fit different bikes. You could also remove the lower straps altogether if you do not feel them to be necessary.








I found the Cristobal pannier convenient to use in that it makes for a great carry-all. With its rigid boxy shape, it is like a bottomless trunk that I can keep stuffing and stuffing with my personal belongings and groceries. On the other hand, the pannier takes some time to affix and detach, and its hooks are only compatible with some of my bicycle racks. Without a more versatile quick release system, I consider this to be more of a touring pannier than a commuter's pannier. Cristobal is willing to use alternative attachment systems upon customer's request, and I suggest getting something like the R&K Klickfixif you need an easy on-off feature that is compatible with a wide variety of racks (I didn't opt for that, because I was curious what the standard attachment system was like).






It is also worth noting that while leather is more durable than cloth, it is also heavier. If you value durability, waterproofness and craftsmanship over weight, then this shouldn't bother you. But if you are seeking the lightest set-up possible, leather is generally not the way to go.






Cristobalpanniers are starting to appear in bicycle shops across the US, and can be ordered directly from the manufacturer with various degrees of personalisation. Prices vary depending on dimensions and the amount of custom work, so please inquire with them directly. I am impressed with the craftsmanship and design of the pannier, and will consider retrofitting mine with a quick release system.