Summer Gentlemen

I love a man who can remain well-dressed in the summer heat and humidity. The Co-Habitant is one of these impressive creatures.

Here he is, wearing linen trousers and a brushed cotton button-down shirt in 90F weather, hauling around a 60lb bicycle and looking none the worse for wear. This is on the Charles River Bike Trail, which we have finally figured out how to take all the way to West Newton (there are some interruptions that make it confusing). The landscape is absolutely idyllic.

Even More Washington DC

A Weekend in Rumney

(Photo: the weekend crowd at the Bonsai Wall, Rumney, NH)

I expected not to like sport climbing at Rumney very much.

I'm a Gunks guy. I like trad climbing. I like multi-pitch routes. I like the unknown.

Sport climbing is different. It's about exertion. It's about efficiency, and power, and the moves. Now, I have nothing against efficiency and power and movement-- I work all the time at these things in the gym. These things are all a part of trad climbing too, of course, but to me trad climbing is about so much more.

I associate trad climbing with peace, nature, and adventure. Sport climbing? It's fine, but to me it's closer to the gym experience than the trad experience. It just isn't my preference. Don't get me wrong, I like climbing in the gym. Actually I like it quite a bit. But if I couldn't trad climb outside, if the gym climbing weren't done in the service of the outdoor trad climbing, I don't know that I'd bother with it. The gym/sport experience is fine on its own terms, but I don't think it'll ever be the point of my climbing. That's just me.

Because of my bias towards trad, the customs of sport climbing are foreign to me. I couldn't care less whether your ascents are redpoints or pinkpoints, for example. Honestly, does anyone actually care? And for the love of God, I don't want any of your stinking beta. Sport climbers seem to have an incurable predisposition towards spewing beta in all directions, and it drives me insane.

I actually coined a term a couple seasons ago for my anti-beta position, which I hope to popularize. I want all my climbs to be "VHS." Do you follow me? Here, I'll show you an example of the proper usage:

Raul, would you shut the fuck up? I'm doing this climb VHS. That means NO BETA!

Please, everyone, start using my terminology. Do your climbs the VHS way. No beta! Stop the spew, I'm begging you.

But I digress. We were discussing Rumney.

There's this great, inspiring web site put up by a couple named Eric and Lucie, about their years spent touring North America's best climbing areas full-time while living in an old bus. These two have been all over the place and they prefer long trad routes that follow natural lines. In the course of their travels they've climbed world-class routes in Red Rocks, Yosemite, all over Colorado and Wyoming, you name it. Well, they spent a few hours at Rumney on their way to the Gunks and this was their verdict:

"We stop on our way at Rumney, the premier sport climbing venue in the Northeast, located near the small college town of Plymouth, NH. Very popular and crowded crag. We climb a few routes there, but basically hate the place. Steep jug pulls on very uninspiring rock... Let's face it, we are not sport climbers."

I am no Eric or Lucie. I have not climbed all over the place, full-time, for years. But I think I share their preferences. And so I expected not to like Rumney very much.

To my surprise I liked climbing there.

First of all, overhanging jug hauls can be lots of fun. We spent a good part of our first day at the Bonsai wall. This wall has a looming overhang, and some of the climbs that ascend it have one big, positive jug after another; the only challenge is to hold on long enough to get through it. These enduro-fests are fun. They have their place.

Secondly, the routes aren't all like that. Up at the Jimmy Cliff, for instance, there's a 5.10a called Lonesome Dove that's a beautiful, delicate slab climb requiring careful footwork. And there's a very similar 5.8+ right next to it that's just as nice.

And while the cliffs are not huge by any standard, they are appealing most of the time. I can see why the rock at Rumney might seem uninspiring, especially if you don't go far from the parking area. We began our climbing at a convenient crag called the Parking Lot Wall and while it does have the advantage of proximity (and some crimpy face routes) it is not nearly as impressive a cliff as others like the Main Cliff (which actually has some multi-pitch routes on it), Waimea (a hardman crag full of 5.12s), and the Hinterlands. The Hinterlands cliff was a particular favorite of everyone in my group because it features an imposing knife-edge arete with a fun 5.10a climb on each side; on one side is a climb called Jolt, and on the other is Dolt. No, Rumney isn't a place that will take your breath away, but it does have some nice-looking rock, in a pleasant wooded setting.

I was climbing 5.10s at Rumney, so obviously the ratings must be soft, although I don't think they're soft for sport. On the first day I didn't lead all that much; I wanted to get a feel for the climbs first. By the time we left on Sunday I'd led a couple 5.10a's (along with a bunch of easier stuff) without a hitch and my best toprope performance was a clean 5.10c. I was happy with this.

But while I enjoyed the climbing, and had a fantastic time with the friends with which I came, there is definitely a dark side to Rumney.

The weekend summer crowd at Rumney is insane. It was worse this weekend than I have ever seen it in the Gunks. It was as if you took the Uberfall crowd on an October Saturday and multiplied it by ten. And you couldn't walk away down the cliff, like you can in the Gunks, to get away from the hordes. Rumney isn't big enough for that. The crowd is everywhere. You can't escape. The climbs are occupied no matter where you go. You're either waiting for a climb or someone else is waiting for you. The path at the base is an obstacle course of people, ropes, dogs, and diaper bags.

Worse than the crowding itself is the type of crowd that seems attracted to Rumney. People new to climbing like to come in large groups. I don't know where they come from. I'm talking about a dozen, maybe two dozen people in one group. You'll see a few people coming up the trail and then they keep coming, and coming, and coming, as if they are emerging from a clown car. And then they'll park themselves at a crag and hog the climbs for hours. One or two "senior" members of the group will have some idea what to do and will set up the climbs for the others, who are waiting like sheep to flail away at them, assisted of course by oceans of spewed beta advice... and on and on and on, as every climber in the group is invited in turn to try every climb simultaneously being held by the squatters.

This type of crowding creates an oppressive atmosphere. I remember when my wife and I visited Prague back in 2002. We liked the city very much but after a couple days we gave up on the central, preserved, pretty part of town. It was ruined for us by tourism, and it wasn't just that it was crowded. It was the tour groups. These groups would tramp blindly down the street in such numbers that you had to struggle to get by them. Sometimes it was a battle not to be swept up into them. And after a few days of physically fighting through these groups just to cross a pretty square or get to the door of a church, we were ready to give up. It wasn't worth it. And sometimes this weekend, Rumney remined me of Prague.

I'm sure I must sound elitist. I have nothing against new climbers. We've all been there. I'm really criticizing the leaders of these parties, who should split the goups up into smaller units, and not shamelessly hog the best climbs for half a day. The group I was climbing with was actually pretty big. It included seven climbers. But in contrast to these massive climbing parties we were seldom, if ever, all in one place at the same time. We'd stay in touch, mix and match, go up and down the crag, get together and drift apart. We weren't doing it to be nice. It just sort of happened without anyone planning it, but it worked out in such a way that we got to climb in a variety of places without holding anyone else up for hours and hours.

That's the way to do it, people.

A final observation about sport climbing, and this is not specific to Rumney. I found that it can lead to a scary complacency. Bolts provide an illusion of security, yet climbing is still a dangerous sport, even with bolts. Of course we all know this. But one must be ever vigilant about observing the basics in climbing, and something about the ease of sport climbing seems to wreak havoc with one's concentration. Things are assumed that should not be assumed. Plans for the lower-off are insufficiently discussed and then miscommunication can occur when the leader reaches the anchor. I saw such developments in my own group and in numerous others, and I am just as much to blame for it as anyone else. No one got injured this weekend but with all the obvious, oblivious newbies floating around a place like Rumney on a busy weekend, and all the stuff I saw going on, it's kind of remarkable no one did. Personally, next time, I'll try harder. I'll be discussing more in advance, watching more, speaking up more.

My verdict: I liked Rumney well enough. I'd gladly go back. But during the week. And only after fully exploring NH trad options like Cannon Cliff and Whitehorse/Cathedral Ledges. I can only compare Rumney to one other sport climbing area, Red Rocks, NV, and Red Rocks is so far superior to Rumney in every conceivable way it is difficult even to begin to discuss it. The climbs, the rock, the scenery, the crowds, plus the availability of world-class trad climbs... and when you think about it, Red Rocks is nearly as convenient as Rumney to NYC so long as you are willing to pay for the flight. But the weather is brutal there in summer so I'd recommend Rumney over Red Rocks in August. In the Spring and the Fall, however, I'd seriously consider flying to Vegas over driving to Rumney, even for just a couple days. If I lived in New England, on the other hand, I'm sure I'd go to Rumney all the time.

Visiting Kasbah Taorirt in Ouarzazate

After our traditional Moroccan lunch, the group headed to Kasbah Taorirt. It is the former residence of Pacha Glaoui, the ruler of Marrakesh and the south of Morocco.



Many thanks and special mention to UNESCO for funding the renovation of this Kasbah and for paving the streets in the medina. Entrance to the Kasbah is 20 DH per person and this is exclusive of the tour guide. So the group arranged a tour guide for the Kasbah who will act as our guide, as well as later for the medina walking tour.







I forgot the name of the guide but he was quite good. With a smirk on his face, he narrated to us the history of the Kasbah including the love affairs of the Pacha who had four wives and several concubines. I guess this is pretty normal here in Morocco even up to this day, if you have the power and money that is. Anyway, he continued on that the wife who bears him the first son will become the favourite wife, or in other words, the ‘head wife’. The head wife will be entitled to better benefits in the marriage. She will have her own big (let me guess, the biggest) extravagant and ostentatious bedroom, a long entourage of maid servants at her beck and call, she obviously has the Pacha’s favour and interestingly, a special viewing room for festivities happening below in the inner courtyard.



Women back then are not directly shown to the public so the wives and concubines are literally stowed away. So during festivities, while the Pacha sits in the open balcony together with his officials and escorts being entertained, the wives are hidden away in their viewing rooms, the windows protected with iron grills. The head wife has her private viewing room of course while the 3 other wives share a smaller viewing room.



Honestly, I will not last a day being a wife of the Pacha, even if I become the head wife. No, thank you.



Here are my pictures of Kasbah Tourirt:







View from the balcony of the Pacha down to the inner courtyard.







Painting exhibit.







Left picture is the lovely wooden ceiling, more information below. Right picture is our tour guide (he was quite good) standing on the open vestibule, it is like a chimney or garbage chute that is used to bring food from the kitchen basement up to the rooms by using the simple lever and pulley technology system.







The ceilings in floral and geometrical patters are lovely even in their bad state. The paint used are henna and other natural ingredients. UNESCO I believe channeled a lot of money into the Kasbah’s renovation but perhaps more money is needed to fully preserve and renovate them to their former glory.







I believe this is the viewing window of the 3 wives. The right picture is one of the restored rooms.



Of course being in Morocco, the Kasbah is not complete without a hammam.



The hammam was quite primitive though and I can only surmise that women were so tiny back then. The entrance doorway to the hammam was so small it can be mistaken as a children’s playhouse. Inside the hammam you can find another hole, albeit tiny. If you slither yourself into it (I cannot imagine I would do that) you can enjoy a much warmer treatment.



OK, I would rather stick to the hammam at Club Med Marrakech!









View from the Kasbah to the medina.



Next: Walking Ouarzazate’s medina.

All About the Looks

As recounted in previous posts, I am frequently approached by strangers who are drawn to my loop frame bicycles. It is not a matter of how expensive the bicycle is, and it is not a matter of whether the bike is new and shiny or old and crusty. But something about that elegant curve - combined with the dress guards, chaincase, and wide cream tires - seems to make these bicycles visually irresistible.Most of the time it is women who approach me, and most of the time they are not cyclists. Their attraction to my bicycle is purely a matter of looks. Upon learning that I actually ride for transportation, the ladies will typically enumerate all the reasons why they can't possibly ride a bike - all the while staring at mine with a longing that I can tell is normally reserved for jewelry store window shopping.

Having gone through this type of interaction more times than I can count, I cannot help but believe that aesthetic attraction alone can make people want to ride a bike, or at least try. And while that motive has been mockedby some, I personally find it fascinating. Just think about what this means: The natural beauty of the classic transportation bicycle is so powerful, that it can make even those who are not interested in cycling wish to do it.

Although my reasons for cycling were never based on looks per se, looks certainly played a role in pushing me over the edge from an ambivalent "it would be nice, but..." attitude, to the enthusiasm that led to the start of this blog. The Co-Habitant and I had talked about getting bikes for a couple of years, but when it came down to it I just could not imagine myself riding. Then one day, I spotted this bike in the neighbourhood and suddenly I could imagine it perfectly well. The design of the bicycle suggested that cycling could be done in a way that is easy, safe, and not in the least bit sports-oriented. While initially the extent of our cycling ambitions was to ride on the trails together on weekends, my growing fascination with the bicycle led to the research that made us view it as a viable option for transportation. And although this was never, ever our intent, two years later we stopped using our car entirely.

While I am not suggesting that every woman who thinks my bicycle is pretty is likely to follow the same course, I do believe that looks are important. And it is not so much a matter of beauty, as it is a matter of engaging the imagination - of the person being able to picture themselves riding the bike. There are multitudes of people out there who do not cycle, because they do not view it as something that is "for them." Setting eyes on a bicycle that appeals to them could change that in a matter of moments.

Inglourious Basterds in summary

Watched Quentin Tarantino’s new movie yesterday – Inglourious Basterds and I’ll have to say that if you have watched Pulp Fiction then this is about the same caliber, as fiction as you can get yet with the right prudence of seriousness, extremely funny scenes with equally funny characters, violent as usual, and with a storyline that has different plots crossing and locking into each other. Typical Tarantino brand.

I’ll leave you to go over at the official website of the Inglourious Basterds to watch the trailers. Make sure you watch the different trailers they have. I think the International version is the best although these trailers will never do justice to the film. Then traverse over at Youtube and do a search on the movie’s name. Read the comments as they are just hilarious. You will also see remnants of the neo Nazi propaganda, posts from anti-Jews and anti-Americans fighting for comment space in there.

We watched the movie in Pathe Rembrandt Theater in Utrecht. Good thing that the conscientious always-a-boy-scout Dutchman bought the tickets online because when we got there 15 minutes before showtime, crowds were packing like shrubs at the cashier with a long tail of people queuing up all the way to the cobbled street outside in Oudegracht. This is probably the first time I have experienced in my going to the movies in the Netherlands that the cinema is full.

Cinemas in the Netherlands are tiny and Rembrandt Theater probably has the biggest seat capacity in Utrecht. The Dutch are really not avid cinema goers as many of them are so cheap (and proud of it) they just watch movies downloaded free from the internet at home.

The film has a very impressive international casting. German, French and English were spoken all throughout the movie. It really gives you the feeling of transcending boundaries, cultures and languages, and it’s inspiring to see actors such as Christoph Waltz (Lt. Landa in the movie–I was quite enamored by his charismatic yet stealthy performance but I can understand why some people find him irritating haha) who spoke fluent German, French, English and Italian!

One of the funny scenes in the movie is when Brad Pitt aka Lt. Aldo posing as an Italian escort to German actress and spy, Bridget von Hammersmark (Diane Kruger) at the Nazi film premier spoke Italian with a very, very, very thick American accent, “Buongiorno!”

The rest of that scene was just frickin hilarious.

On the other hand the movie has a tragic Romeo and Juliet effect with the characters, Shoshana Dreyfus (Melanie Laurent), the French-Jewish survivor turned Theater owner and Fredrick Zoller (Daniel Bruehl), the Nazi soldier hero. There was momentous heartbreaking gravity there when they both killed each other.

Another favorite character is Sgt. Hugo Stiglitz (Til Schweiger), the ex Nazi who became famous for killing Gestapo officers and recruited into Lt. Aldo’s the Barterds team. His character in the film is so mean, unyielding and driven that it’s almost and insanely bordering comic. It is strange but so true!

3 hours long. Worth it. Watch it.
.

Ahhh!

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park, WashingtonSeptember 10, ..

Summer fitness?

From http://www.skintrack.com/



"Q: I think we should discuss summer training for skimo racers on two levels – for occasional racers and those that like to keep fit (REC category), and for the elite athletes shooting for spots on national teams and those seeking ultimate performance for their goals in the mountains (ELITE category).

In all cases, the emphasis is on efforts on less than 3h and the peak performances are expected to occur between January and March.

Do you agree we should address both groups specifically? If not, propose a better differentiation or none at all."



Answer: I definitely agree that both groups should be approached differently, simply because their ultimate goals are different. Because of that, their preparation will be slightly different.

As an elite athlete myself, preparation is something that I absolutely love. I treat racing as puzzle, where you have to scavenge around to find the right pieces to achieve your ultimate outcome.

It’s that process of scavenging for what I need to do to arrive on the starting line of my goal race as prepared to compete as I can be that I thrive on. It’s a trait I learned from Simon Whitfield, one of my closest friends and someone who’s sporting results on the day speak for themselves."







It is a good read. More here:



http://www.skintrack.com/skimo-racing/skimo-racing-summer-training-interview-adam-campbell/

In Baarn

We have been visiting Baarn lately, and our most recent visit was this morning when we met with a real estate agent to check out this vrijstand house with a 1930’s architectural facade design.

The house was lovely from the outside. However, my first impression when I stepped inside the living room was nowhere near ecstatic. It was actually a bit of a downer. There were no sparks flying. No love at first sight kind of thing. Only the bathroom impressed me as it was so luxurious I could imagine myself lying in the tub with the bubbles.

Nevertheless, I would like to post some of the fotos I took in Baarn during our few visits.

Thatched roof shops in the Centrum.

Many mansions here...

De Generaal Cafe

What I love with Baarn is the exclusive, suburban, and living with nature feel. There are lots of trees, parks, and forest groves in the area.



The famous Lage Vuursche forest where the Drakesteyn Castle owned by Queen Beatrix is located just right by the corner. Beautiful and stately mansions abound in the village that is now transformed into elegant offices. And Amsterdam is just half an hour away (without traffic) via the A1 highway.

Moi in a quite colourful emsemble

Very green here in Baarn

So even though the visit to this house in Baarn this morning was a bit disappointing, we will keep searching until we find the right house, hopefully in Baarn or somewhere else equally nice.



Visit Period: June

Destination: Baarn (Utrecht), The Netherlands

Sky Watchers (Auroras and Perseids and Milky Way, Oh My!)

Just got in from watching and shooting the Milky Way, Northern Lights and Perseid meteor shower from the top of Mt. Maude. What an amazing night! The northern lights were very low along the horizon, but they were dancing and putting on a decent show. Yet again, I am amazed by the wonders of the night sky! This photo shows my friends Jake and April enjoying the amazing sky.

Pickleball Clinic

When we learned how to play pickleball, we just jumped into the game. We had no idea how to really play beyond the basic rules. Today Rich did a clinic and I realized just how much we didn't know. There was a really good turnout as far as number of people there and the weather was nice enough to be outside which helped. We learned so much! Now we just need to practice it.





You can go here: Florida Picklers to read more and see pictures.

Southeast Aurora

Fromthis pastweekend's incredibly awesome geomagnetic storm. You know it's an excellent display of the northern lights when the best views are no longer to the north! This particular formation of the Aurora was actually emanating up from the southeast horizon! This was a 20 second exposure taken at ISO 1600 with a Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera and Canon EF 17-40mm lens.

Touchy-Feely

I have a funny habit of touching bicycles. It starts innocently enough: First a glance, then a closer look, then a quick stroke or two. But before I know it I am engaged in an orgy of tactile exploration that has been known to shock by-standers. Slowly and affectionately I will run my hand over the frame, tracing the outlines of the lugwork, closely examining the joints, touching the braze-ons one by one, visibly savouring every moment of it. Those who know me in person tease me about this, and apparently even discuss it behind my back good-naturedly. At Interbike last year, I was giving a bike a furtive fondle when the manufacturer snuck up behind me, laughing: "They toldme you were going to do this!"



When it comes to other people's bikes, I do ask permission - much as I would ask for permission to pet someone's dog or cat. "May I?" My voice andmy outstretched handtremble with anticipation. The owner is amused and delighted, if somewhat taken aback by the intensity of my interest.



But though my case may be extreme, I am hardly alone in the bike-fondling affliction. Even without asking, strangers will often stroke my bikes absent-mindedly - their hands drawn to a leather saddle, a headbadge, some shellacked twine, lugwork. "This part here..." an acquaintance suddenly said mid-conversation, pointing to the top of my bike's fork. "It's so... cake-like! What is it for?" Excitedly I began to explain about fork crowns, but stopped myself as the poor person's eyes glazed over. They didn't want to know. But they did want to touch.



I think that bicycles - particularly bicycles with all sorts of interesting or organic-looking bits on them - tend to invite tactile attention. Say what you will about looks mattering or not mattering, but when a bicycle draws us in physically, surely that is a good thing.



Are you touchy-feely when it comes to bikes? Do others tend to touch your bike, and do you mind?

Meal Time

Stormy and Trave eating together.

Solstice!

Soon the longest day of the year will be upon us. For climbers this is significant not only because there are a lot of festivals, parties and music happenings throughout the area, but also because this is the time of the year when the long daylight hours allow us to climb headlamp free for many, many hours.



This year the actual Solstice is on June 20 at 23:09, however its effects will be noticed for a much longer period of time and are in fact currently being observed. Since the 20th is a weekday you can actually make it to the Fremont Fair and the associated parties going on this weekend, get down, recover and STILL get out in the wilderness or wherever else you enjoy being for the actual day of Solstice. (Just assuming wilderness is your thing since this is a blog about climbing Mount Rainier.)



The forecast for the upcoming week looks like a mixed bag with some sun and clouds, but no major storm events are on the horizon. Hopefully we are done with those for a while. Climbers have recently been summitting via all the standard routes, so check out the updates for the DC, Emmons, and Liberty Ridge among others. Don't forget your sunblock and stay hydrated out there!

Be attentive when placing ice screws!

A Grivel Helix buried with some terrain protection..but it wasn't an intentional act.And until now I hadn't thought much about the issue. I wonder how many of us have?









The German DAV report and its pictures discussed in this entryare clear as to the issue but sadly I can't copythe context. If anyone finds a version I can copy and paste [thank you Joe for the jpegs]please let me know.







This from Magnus Råström @ Black Diamond Equipment AG





"There was a ice climbing accident last season, no one got hurt but it could have ended really bad and the ice climbers were using our (BD) Express screws. Christ Semmel working for DAV investigated the accident and attached is his report in German. I have below a short summary in English.



Course of Action:

2 Ice climbers doing a multipitch route in Austria, using Mammut double ropes, for protection BD Express Ice Screw with a Austria Alpin QD Easy Classic and for belay a reverso. The axe and crampons of the lead climber (belayed from below) did pull out and the climber fell 12 m without ice contact or injury, but the mantel ripped on one of the ropes (see photo page one, blue rope). Chris came to the conclusion that the rope ripped because it was pulled over the crank knob of the ice screw. The photo on page one, red rope is the rope which they have tested and pulled over a crank knob. Chris is not negative against our ice screw’s and the conclusion is that when ice climbing with ice screw’s with crank knobs it is important to fold them in after use. Also he recommends the use of ice screws with crank knobs that you can fold in.



All the best,

Magnus Råström / Black Diamond Equipment AG"





I use and like both the BD Express and Grivel Helix.



I do how ever use Grivel Helix in much of my own steep water ice climbing with an obvious crank knob that does not fold in. Worth noting the BD knobs are sharp in comparison. It should be pretty obvious you don't want a rope running over them that will take weight. The BD knob diameter at the small end is 9.5mm and the Grivel 15.5mm. The Grivel knob is a synthetic, likely Delrin and smooth. BD's knob is knurled aluminum and likely the last thing any of us want to run a rope over. I don't want my rope running overeither in a fall. But if given a choice...I'll take a folded knob overthe Grivel option.



But that isn't the total story. You need to know more.



The direction at which you clip the hangers should also be very different on the BD as opposed to the Grivel screws. The Grivel hanger offers a bit more play to set a screw and have the hanger flex on the screw to clear the ice. That allows the Grivel knob to be closer to the ice where the BD hanger will always be forced intentionally to the outside. Flip the BD knob down and you won't have a problem there. Not so on the Grivel as you have no option but to hide the know in the terrain. .



I disagree some what withMagnus' synopsis of the report and if that was accurate (and no reason to think it was not) the DAV report itself.



Here is why:

It you hang a rope on the Grivel hangerit is more likely to do one of two things in my opinon :

One: It will slide off to the outside of the hanger on theslick Delrin material



Two: Or depending on the hanger clearance from the ice get trapped behind the hanger and run on the 16.5mm screw body itself and or the horizontally positioned hanger body.



Either option I would prefer to knurled aluminum and a vertical positioned 2.5mm thick stainless hanger. So close your knobs on the BD Express screws! And I wouldn't usescrews with a fixed small diameter (knurled or not) knob that mimics BD's hanger design is what I take away fromthis. It is splitting hairs but important hairs I think.



It is all about the details,be careful out there!



A Grivel Helix with the black knob and two BD Express, red knob up and the yellow knob tucked in. Note the Grivel hanger is reversed compared to how it would actually be placed in the ice for this photo.



Obvious difference in the Grivel horizontal hanger and BD's vertical hanger. Thisis not the position the Grivel screw would normally be placed but 180 degrees reversed. Knob up on Grivel. Knob down for BD.



A long 2.7mm "blade" before you get to the knurled aluminum knob on the BD screw.



Beal 7.8 Ice twin on the BD knob which when left open caused a sheath failure in the fall.





I have no doubt you could catch a rope on the Grivel hanger, which you really do not want to do.Bottom line is be careful out there and think about each and every placement. For my money twin or dbl ropes on ice make a lot of sense.







Two pictures of the Grivel Helix in the position a rope would normally be caught from above. With the hanger totally at the end of its movement and the carabiner holeis to the inside,the knob is angled down so a rope would generally just slip off of it orthe rope will run behind the hanger and on to the screw tube body. This seems an unlikely event (but certainly possible) because only ice behind the knob end of the hanger would force it into this position.



If the hanger does have space behind it after the screw is placed no question you can easily hook the rope there in a fall.But again better a 17.5mm radius (Grivel's tube) to run your rope over than a 9.5mm radius (BD's knob) with the addition of several sharp edges to help the damage along.



Worth repeating I think.

For my money twin or dbl ropes on ice make a lot of sense.

Miles of vertical ice have been climbed with either style screw and hanger and as many miles with screws and hangersnot nearly as good. I'll continue to climb on both BD and Grivel screws and choose accordingly to whichfits my project best.I'm not suggesting panic here just that you keep your eyes and mind open to the possibilities.